"I am going to run THE Paris Marathon". This careful arrangement of words tells a lot. It tells that this person loves to run, is excited to travel Europe and is kind of show-off, but still, very excited. So after announcing my trip to all the 'key' people including my friends, running mates, colleagues, hiking group and leasing office folks(...Oops!), I started for Paris a week before the marathon to meet Deepak Sharma. Short intro, we are the best buds since forever.All THANKS to Deepak and his wife Abhilasha, my Paris stay and Euro trip (Paris, Amsterdam, Brussels) which went on till a day before Marathon Expo, were simply amazing. For the first time i had people more concerned than me for my marathon. And, as i found later that could do wonders for your run.
Part 0 - The Joggers Expo
'J-O-G-G-I-N-G' 4h 30. I was amused. Guess, the french word for RUNNING is not so appealing, so they put a 'Jogging' banner above 4:30 mark. The expo was at Parc des Expositions and it was just huge. After medical certificate verification i got my Bib number and goody bag. Then like a good 'jogger', i looked around for freebies and photo ops. And, believe me, there were many. There was commotion at one of the stalls. People are taking photos and greeting someone. That person turned out to be Kenenisa Bekele, the three time Olympic champion who was running his debut marathon (Well, two days later he also won with a new course record) and was in expo for promotional purposes. After some stargazing, posing and filling my bag i headed for home.
Part 1 - The Race morning Butterflies
"Don't worry. You will finish. And, if you stop just give me a call, I will be there" said Deepak reassuringly, while i ate pasta to get my carbs. He loaded the runner tracking in his phone and then we were off to Arc de Triomphe. It was Sunday so there was no morning rush in the metro. After few stations another runner boarded the train, a tall, lanky fellow who looked like a fast one,then a family with two kids to support their father and then a big family with big cameras supporting a young man.By the time, we reached destination i could see a lot of runners heading to Champs Elysees.
As a habit, i looked around for Porta-pottys, and found few with not so long queues. The runners here must have strong bladders i thought. Just few more steps to the queue, i realized how wrong i was. More than people in the queue, i found men relieving themselves in nearby walls, bushes, trees, just any place with a slight cover. And looking at the arrangements (and runners) on the course it looked as if even organizers have accepted the fact.
For running event this big the start line was organized pretty well. Runners and spectators were separated by wire fences. I had never seen so many runners at one place before. Even though the race start time was 8:30 am, my starting time was around 9:40. Loud music was playing at starting line, spectator were cheering from outside the fence, residents were cheering from tall buildings.No there were no 'French' songs, just billboard chart busters. And the cool spring sun was shining in the blue sky.
Part 2 - New Miles Kilometers New Lessons
And then we started. The 4h30 wave actually started like a disoriented one, with everyone trying to run around all the stuff the front waves left on the road. and i got the first lesson - the Paris runners do not like to throw empty bottles, clothes, plastic wraps on the side, they just leave them on road.
However, once the initial clutter was over, running on Champs Elysees was pretty good. The wide roads with tall trees and taller buildings on both sides and lots of cheering spectators trying to catch glimpse of their own runners. I started real slow clocking almost 12 min/mile. My last two half marathons ended in much pain, so I was cautious, and planned to run a slow one. After the first mile the course took a slight turn towards the Louvre Museum. I visited Louvre just two days before and its grandness simply baffled me. Here the tourists were maneuvering the waves of runners to cross the road, and as now the path was getting slightly narrow faster runners were trying to cut through the wave. which led to the second lesson-there is no 'On your left', 'Runner incoming', 'Excuse Me' or a weak smile happening on Paris roads, a simple shoulder brush is just not enough to have a mention.
I found Deepak at the second mile, he was on a bicycle to cheer me up and to take the above photo for live update on social media. The organizers have placed markers for every KM and every mile, so in total there were 65+ markers along the way, so it was easier to pace yourself till the next marker. However, the best markers in Paris are the monuments spread across the course. The next was Place de la Bastille at the 5K mark.
Otherwise known as the first water stop, but there were no disposable cups or volunteers trying to fill those cups as fast as they can. It was simpler and more elegant, sealed water bottles. And, water stops followed by big garbage cans for at least another quarter of mile. But as i mentioned in Paris runners like to leave things on the road.
It was just the fourth mile, and i already felt tired. Probably the week long Euro trip started to show its effects. The good thing was that the streets of Paris kept the course interesting. There was as lot of cheering, and then some awesome bands started showing up. Lot of drums, less of guitar. I could see different country flags waving, Lot of support for Brazil and the upcoming world cup and many Japanese flags.
As we entered Bois De Vincennes, aroud mile 6,the biggest public park at the eastern edge of Paris the buildings disappeared. Now it was green all around, and the views were of different kind. Runners of all genders were disappearing in the woods. I could see a lot of trails, and i believe i also saw a few scallop shell signs of 'Camino de Santiago'. The second water stop was near, and this time with the water bottles there was another good surprise. As if the organizers do not believe in energy gels, Gatorade or any kind of processed foods, after the water there was long line of tables with bananas, oranges, sugar cubes and raisins. The expert volunteers were just cutting fresh fruits in pieces on the go.
The weather was still good, but organizers made good arrangements for the heat wave. As we crossed the Pyramid, runners were welcomed with the good cold shower.
The weather was still good, but organizers made good arrangements for the heat wave. As we crossed the Pyramid, runners were welcomed with the good cold shower.
Now, i was feeling much better than before, i felt like the morning carbs were finally settled and getting in blood stream. The next 5-6 kms were breeze. I picked up the pace, brushed a few shoulders and moved on. After mile 11 the course took us again back to the city. The 20 km mark was on a slight downhill and had lot of spectators on the both sides. The bands, the waterstop and cheering squads made it like a happening place.
The half way was near and i was still on target. After the next water stop, i walked for a while watching out for the orange and banana peels, stomped to shreds by thousands of runners, making the road slippery for incoming runners. At the next corner the half way mark appeared. I was still in 2:30 range, and feeling good.
Just before mile 14 the course was back to Place de la Bastille and I saw Deepak waving and cheering. I was glad to see him. The on course support in a big race is always welcome sign. Refreshed, I moved on to fight the next half of marathon.
Part 3 - Watch OR Run
And i must mention this, at many places including this stretch i found these Tibetan supporters waving the Tibetan flag. I couldn't identify any Tibetan runners but the flag bearers did cheer alot when they saw me.
The beautiful stretch was around a mile long and then we entered a tunnel (Yes, a long tunnel) near mile 16. It took some adjustment to look around in the tunnel. The organizers knew how to make even this tunnel interesting. Loud music, strobe lights, video projectors made it more look like a disco. Runners were actually dancing to the tunes as they moved along.
The tunnel was more than a mile long, connected to the outside world long after mile 17. As I crossed mile 18, i could see Effiel tower on the other side of river. Deepak, who was following my progress with the tracker app, was already there. "You look much better than before" He said, and i agreed. I was feeling much better than i felt in first 10 miles. And at this point i was sure i would finish the marathon. I was not concerned about the time. The city was too beautiful to just focus on running. After the 'must' customary pose in front of the tower, i joined few other runners enjoying the view. There was a water stop nearby and (if i remember correctly) a leg massage point. I have seen post race massages, but during race, that was a first.
Soon i crossed the 30 km marker as the route left the scenic river and moved in the city. I started focusing more on the runners now. I saw a lady with '100 marathon Club' tee and complimented her. To which she answered that she is just part of the club, and then there were a few who i kept meeting every hundred meters, as we passed one another and meet after a while. After first few encounters we stopped saying 'Good job' 'Keep it up' to each other and just smiled.
The greens started again as now we were entering the Bois de Boulogne, the public park at the west end of Paris. Another park, i thought, till i saw a sign reading 'Porte Suzanne Lenglen' with a very familiar 'RG' emblem. 'Is it? Is it really Roland Garros?' Rafael Nadal's favorite hunting ground.' and my favorite tournament. I actually stopped when i saw the marker few steps ahead 'Roland Garros Tennis Courts!'. I admit this was my star struck moment. My thoughts were in line of 'Now its my turn to bite a medal in Paris !!'
Most of the runners around me were relaxed. As if everyone knew they going to finish, that is always a good sign. And the best part was there was no pain till now. My legs felt pretty good, my energy levels felt normal and i was not tired. The 2 mile stretch from 23-25 was just plan other than a carnival style open truck following the runners, blowing loud music, throwing french encouragements (or expletives),making them run and laugh. Even few fatigued runners were trying to catch up, as if no one wanted to stay behind that truck.
As we crossed the 25 mile marker, the number of spectators increased. I could hear loud music from far, and i saw runners getting ready for finish line, especially the lady who combed her hair while running. There was palpable excitement among the runners.
Part 4 - To the Finish and Beyond
As I approached the marker 26 the cobblestone path appeared again. I could see runners who finished before showing off their medals. The other interesting thing about the marathon was that they had actually painted the mile (not kms) markers on the path. And it doesn't matter how many races i run, this is a point which brings out lot of emotions of good kind. For next few minutes, I become a good, content person. Thinking good things, thanking everyone who matters.
My flight from Paris was next day to get me to the real world. The marathon and the whole trip was just amazing, mostly because of the hosts. I actually had to carefully pick the race moments from the bag full of great ones. I still don't know if Paris is THE city of love or has the greatest marathon, but i know that i would definitely love to run again and find out.
FIN
Just after mile 14 the course took a big turn to the river side, the view on the left side was opening up, and as soon as I crossed 24 km mark, the cobblestone path took me downhill to the road on side of river (later i found its called Voie Georges Pompidou). This was by far the best stretch of marathon with awesome views of Notre-Dame (which truthfully, i was unimpressed to see two days back) and vintage Paris with bridges and boats on Seine. Lots of people cheering from the sides and top of the bridges. There was huge support for Brazilians with a lot of people in soccer jerseys dancing to Samba tunes. Many runners including me were just enjoying the moment. Taking pictures, waving, moving to the beats, high-fives and slowly moving towards the next mile.
The beautiful stretch was around a mile long and then we entered a tunnel (Yes, a long tunnel) near mile 16. It took some adjustment to look around in the tunnel. The organizers knew how to make even this tunnel interesting. Loud music, strobe lights, video projectors made it more look like a disco. Runners were actually dancing to the tunes as they moved along.
The greens started again as now we were entering the Bois de Boulogne, the public park at the west end of Paris. Another park, i thought, till i saw a sign reading 'Porte Suzanne Lenglen' with a very familiar 'RG' emblem. 'Is it? Is it really Roland Garros?' Rafael Nadal's favorite hunting ground.' and my favorite tournament. I actually stopped when i saw the marker few steps ahead 'Roland Garros Tennis Courts!'. I admit this was my star struck moment. My thoughts were in line of 'Now its my turn to bite a medal in Paris !!'
As I approached the marker 26 the cobblestone path appeared again. I could see runners who finished before showing off their medals. The other interesting thing about the marathon was that they had actually painted the mile (not kms) markers on the path. And it doesn't matter how many races i run, this is a point which brings out lot of emotions of good kind. For next few minutes, I become a good, content person. Thinking good things, thanking everyone who matters.
The finish line was just another turn after the final marker. The view of the finish line made me go faster. Crossing the clicking photographers, thanking the heavens, putting my hands up in the air, I crossed the finish line after 5:30 hrs. The slowest but definitely a cherished one.
I rested for a while, looking back at the finish line and people crossing, probably having similar thoughts. I collected the shiny new bling at the finish line with the finisher T-shirt and a green robe, which made most of runners look like characters from Harry Potter movie. I was really happy to see Deepak, Abhilasha and Adi waiting for me at the finish. In a way, that actually felt better than the finish or probably the happiness was just adding up.
My flight from Paris was next day to get me to the real world. The marathon and the whole trip was just amazing, mostly because of the hosts. I actually had to carefully pick the race moments from the bag full of great ones. I still don't know if Paris is THE city of love or has the greatest marathon, but i know that i would definitely love to run again and find out.
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